Phil’s Take
Megan is sitting this one out today, so you’ll have to settle with just my commentary on today’s activities.
This was an early morning again, because Zion has parking issues if you don’t get there early. The kids both needed to be woken up and Emmett especially was not happy about it. We got to the Zion Canyon Visitor Center parking lot almost exactly the same time as Sunday, about 7:30, but there were clearly fewer cars in the parking lot.
Our first hike of the day was the Watchman trail that starts right near the shuttle buses outside the visitor center and heads up to an overlook about 500ft above the cabins. The aforementioned grumpy toddler had to be carried most of the way up and down, which was a challenge for me for reasons I’ll get to in a bit. The views at the top were worth the hike.
The plan was for me to hike Angels Landing, and we had a permit for after 9 AM, while Megan did the junior ranger stuff with the kids and did the Pa’rus Trail. I wanted to start it later than 9 because there would be fewer people trying to get up that tight trail, but Megan wanted to not drag the day down with it. It turned out that the whiny toddler and general pace on our first hike caused me to get a later start anyway. The point is that I already had over 3 miles and 500ft elevation gain mostly carrying a toddler before even starting the big hike for the day. I got started on the hike just after 11 AM.
Angels Landing starts by ascending the West Rim trail. I originally thought I hadn’t taken the right trail because it was flat for a while, followed the river, and it has practically nobody on it compared to the Kayenta trail which starts at the same place. Not to worry, because I soon saw people way up on the cliffs and realized that was my destination.
Once I got up a ways, I caught a shot of the switchbacks that show how winding the trail is.
The view down the valley was already looking great, but it was very clear that I had much further to go.
Not much further up the trail headed west into a narrow canyon and leveled off for a bit. The air also cooled significantly, which was very welcomed given how far up I had climbed at this point.
At the end of that canyon, it climbed out, and was very steep with the highest concentration of switchbacks I have ever seen.
I took a picture from the top as well so you see the whole perspective.
It was very steep and strenuous, but the top was right at the beginning of the Angels Landing spur where the rangers were checking permits.
The Angels Landing spur is the most strenuous by far and has some legendary tight drop offs and chains to hold onto.
That part basically goes straight up. To me the steep drop wasn’t the problem, it was the steep climb. I didn’t really use the chains much, because it was easier to just climb on hands and feet. At no point did I ever come close to feeling unsafe, just tired.
Once up this last bit,
there’s just a ridge that you follow out to the end that is Angels Landing.
It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.
I took plenty of pictures at that point that are in the gallery and spent about 20 minutes eating some snacks before heading down. It was not crowded, never more than a dozen people at that spot at a time, even though it could accommodate more. Nor was the trail crowded. I did not have to wait much for people going the opposite direction up or down. Their permits have obviously kept it reasonable and enjoyable. It would easily turn into a nightmare with perhaps double the people.
On the way down I saw rock that matched the rock we saw on Sunday on the east side of the tunnel.
It’s clear that this is just what that layer of rock looks like, you just can’t see it from the bottom of the canyon.
All in all, it took me about 1hr 20 min to hike up with no rest stops, except to take pictures, and about 50 minutes to hike back down to the bus. I never got passed by anyone going either direction, which made me feel like I’m in pretty good shape considering. The major ascending portions of the West Rim trail were paved with concrete, and very easy to walk, aside from the elevation gain. There was plenty of room to pass. I would have really liked to continue the West Rim trail further, but there was just not enough time. I expect the rest of it to be very beautiful as well.
Once I finally met back up with Megan and the kids, they were both asleep in the stroller. Clearly the early morning had an effect on them.
Emmett was so tired he fell back to sleep after being grumpy when I took him out of the stroller and put him in the truck.
This is the second day in a row that the weather looked like it was going to be terrible. Yesterday we got more wind than anything, with just a little rain. Today it was all wind.
I guess deserts are called deserts for a reason. We were able to stay at the water park back at the campground until nearly closing, and the kids got to see Yogi again.
Anyway, here’s all the pictures for today.
That looks gorgeous, Angels Landing is now on my list.